THE LLANOS.
The Llanos are only about half as extensive as the Pampas, but even they cover an area of country equal to twice the extent of France. The Llanos are situated on the left banks of the Orinoco, and towards the mouth of that river they are wooded. Another portion is called the Llanos Altos or the elevated plains, and these extend about 350 miles from east to west, and 200 from north to south. They are not fertile, as they consist of a dry chalky soil, but they are more healthy than the low ground, and they extend to the foot of the Andes. The greatest disadvantage they possess, however, is the want of water, which the traveller is generally obliged to carry with him. The greater part of the Llanos, however, lie low, and are covered with the most abundant vegetation as soon as the rainy season has commenced. The Llanos are situated entirely within the tropics, and are subject to alternate seasons of rain and excessive drought.
THE SELVA.
The Selva is another of the vast plains which form so distinguishing a feature in the aspect of South America; but, unlike the other plains, it is entirely covered with wood. It extends from the north of the river Amazon westward to the base of the rocky masses of the Andes, and in this direction it measures at least 1500 miles; its width varies from three to eight hundred, or perhaps more; and its surface probably comprehends an area equal to six times the extent of France. A great portion of this vast plain is occasionally inundated with the waters of the Amazon, and the other vast rivers that traverse it; and, indeed, it is generally calculated that 200,000 square miles are annually laid under water. "The whole of this low region is covered with an exceedingly thick wood. It is composed of large trees of various sizes and heights, and what is very remarkable, they differ greatly in species; so that no two trees standing together are of the same kind. On a space of twenty square yards perhaps thirty or forty trees are found, but all are of different species. The spaces between them are filled up with grass-trees, and bushes of different kinds and sizes, standing close together, and the whole is united into one mass by numerous climbing plants and creepers, which, as it were, constitute the web of the tissue. Thus a woody fabric is raised, as impenetrable to man as a wall of stone, and more difficult to be removed; near the ground only is found here and there a small and low opening, by which the jaguars and other wild beasts find access to the beds of the rivers. These woods can only be entered where they are traversed by water-courses deep enough to be navigated by canoes, but such attempts are usually very laborious. The branches of the trees overhang the channels from each bank, and as they are also entwined by climbing plants, the progress of the canoe can only be effected by cutting the branches. The larger rivers afford a more open and free access, but at many places similar obstacles occur in them." At a considerable distance from the banks of the Amazon there are occasionally savannahs or grassy plains; but the greater part of the Selva is covered with wood so thickly as to render its cultivation almost impracticable. Some of the climbing plants which hang from the trees are Orchidaceae of the most singular forms and brilliant colours; and the birds and butterflies which flutter about are of such dazzling brilliancy in their colours, as to be almost painful to the eye. There are, however, numerous poisonous serpents and stinging insects among these thick woods; and their inhabitants are almost of the lowest order of human beings.
THE PUNA OR DESPOBLADO OF THE ANDES.
In many parts of the Andes are extensive tracts of table land at the height of about 12,000 feet above the level of the sea. They are called in the language of the country Puna, but the Spaniards give them the name of Despoblado, or the uninhabited country. "These table lands form the upper mountain regions of the South American Highlands: they spread over the whole extent of Peru, from north-west to south-east, a distance of 350 Spanish miles, continuing through Bolivia, and gradually running eastward into the Argentine Republic." The climate of these regions, Tschudi tells us, is not less rigorous than that of the high mountain ridges. Cold winds from the west and south-west blow nearly all the year round from the snow-covered Cordillera; and for the space of four months, these winds are daily accompanied by thunder, lightning, and snow storms. The piercing cold felt during the night is succeeded by a burning heat during the day, and a return of the same cold at night; and the transition is the more sensibly felt on the fall of the temperature, as it is usually accompanied by sharp biting winds, so keen, that they cut the skin on the face and hands. It is no uncommon circumstance for the excessive cold of these regions to cause death; and the bodies of travellers who have perished in the cold are frequently met with, the bodies shewing no symptom of decay, but the faces having a horrid appearance of laughter, from the contraction of the muscles at the period of dissolution. This remarkable appearance is the effect of the Puna wind, which has the power of speedily drying animal bodies, and thus preventing putrefaction. "A dead mule is, in a few days, converted into a mummy; not even the entrails presenting the least trace of decomposition. It frequently happens that, after being long exposed to these cold winds, the traveller enters warm atmospheric currents. These warm streams are sometimes only two or three paces, and at other times, several hundred feet broad. They run in a parallel direction with each other, and one may pass through five or six of them in the course of a few hours." Tschudi observes, that it appears that these currents are not merely temporary, for the mule drivers can often foretell, with tolerable accuracy, where they will be encountered. "The aspect of the Puna," he adds, "is singularly monotonous and dreary; the expansive levels are scantily covered with grasses of a yellowish brown hue, and are never enlivened by any fresh looking verdure; and they have only here and there a few stunted trees and shrubs. In these elevated regions, the effect of the diminished atmospheric pressure on the human frame, shews itself in symptoms of intolerable weariness and an extreme difficulty of breathing. The natives call this malady the Puna, but the Spanish Creoles give it the names of Mareo and Veta. Ignorant of its real causes they ascribe it to the exhalations of metals, especially antimony, which is extensively used in the mining operations; the first symptoms of the veta are usually felt at the elevation of 12,600 feet above the sea. These symptoms are vertigo, dimness of sight and hearing, pains in the head and nausea. Blood flows from the eyes, nose, and lips. Fainting fits, spitting of blood, and other dangerous symptoms usually attend severe attacks of veta. The sensations which accompany this malady somewhat resemble those of sea-sickness, and hence its Spanish name mareo. But sea-sickness is unaccompanied by the distressing difficulty of breathing experienced in the veta." This disease frequently proves fatal to human beings, and cats are generally destroyed by it. In fact, at an elevation of 13,000 feet above the level of the sea these animals cannot live. "Numerous trials," Tschudi informs us, "have been made to rear them in the villages of the upper mountains, but without effect; for, after a few days' abode in those regions, the animals die in frightful convulsions; but when in this state they do not attempt to bite."
THE PRAIRIES.
The Prairies of North America are nearly as extensive as those of the south, and they are much more beautiful, as they present extraordinary richness of vegetation, combined with an undulating surface, which rises and falls like the swelling of the ocean, while in various places it is diversified by bluffs or round hills, which are generally covered with grass and flowers to the very top. On the outskirts of these Prairies a zone about 200 miles in breadth is covered with wood, containing oaks with leaves of various shapes, most of which turn of a brilliant red in autumn; magnolias with their large white flowers, which are of oppressive sweetness; and various kinds of rhododendrons and azaleas. The swampy grounds near the rivers are covered with enormous trees of the deciduous cypress, and the white cedar; and these dreary solitudes are called the cypress swamps.
The Prairies being covered with grass for hundreds of miles, it is impossible either to cut it or to graze it all, and, consequently, in the autumn it withers and becomes perfectly dry. In this state it frequently takes fire, either by lightning or other accident, or it is set on fire by the Indians, who wish to burn off the long grass, in order to ensure a fresh crop for their horses, and also to render their travelling more agreeable.
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"Over the higher grounds and prairie bluffs, where the grass is short, the flames creep slowly and feebly, and the animals remain quiet till they approach them, when they bound over the fire, and escaping further molestation, trot off amongst the ashes. These scenes at night become indescribably beautiful, when the flames are seen at many miles' distance creeping over the sides and tops of the bluffs; and the hills being invisible, the flames appear sparkling and brilliant chains of liquid fire, hanging suspended in festoons from the sky." But in some cases, the scene is altered from the interesting and beautiful, to the majestic but terrific. "In many parts, the grass is six or seven feet high, as in the Missouri bottoms, and the flames are driven forward by the hurricanes, which often sweep over these vast prairies. There are many tracts like this on the Platte, and the Arkansas, of many miles in breadth, which are perfectly level, with a waving grass, so high, that men are obliged to stand erect in their stirrups, in order to look over the waving tops, as they are riding through them. The fire in these places, before such a wind, travels at such an immense and frightful rapidity, as frequently to destroy parties of Indians who may be overtaken by it: not that it travels so fast as a horse at full speed, but the high grass is entangled with wild pea-vines, and other plants of the kind, which impede the rider, and compel him to guide his horse in the zig-zag paths of the buffaloes and deer, and retard his progress so much that he is often overtaken by the immense cloud of smoke and flame; which, with its thundering sound and lightning glare, destroys almost everything that it approaches."
The Prairies contain immense herds of buffaloes, which are found by tens of thousands. There are also abundance of antelopes, and some few wolves. The most remarkable animal found in Prairies, however, is what is called the Prairie dog, but which is said to be a kind of marmot. These curious creatures inhabit what may be called subterranean villages, with curious little conical hills on the surface of the ground, near which are the openings to the subterranean passages in which they dwell; and they may often be seen sitting beside the hills, though the moment a stranger appears, they scamper away and burrow in the ground like rabbits in a warren.